Those who are already familiar with the work of Professor Vladimir Khavinson from the St. Petersburg Biogerontology Institute in Russia, will know how remarkable his work has been in the discovery of short-chain peptide bioregulators- located in food- that act as highly specific gene switches.
Now, four of these peptide bioregulators have been combined into topical skin preparations so that their performance can be brought to the field of aesthetic medicine; specifically the peptides in use are those from:
- Blood vessels
- Thymus gland
- Pineal gland
What does each peptide provide for?
The beauty product line Youth Gems® contains these peptides and a ginseng extract called Neovitin®. They are a specially developed program of complex skin care designed for the face, neck, hands and the body. The line includes four unique active ingredients of short-chain peptides that have a directed tissue-specific action to improve all basic skin structures, plus a ginseng biomass extract with strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action and a number of other natural and synergistic ingredients.
- The thymus gland peptide stimulates tissue regeneration and the synthesis of tissue-specific proteins. Thus, cells proliferative and metabolic activity is enhanced- accelerating the renewal of various cell tissues. It also has an anti-inflammatory action, improving the healing time of wounds, as well as antioxidant, immune stimulating and anti-stress actions.
- The pineal gland peptide regulates metabolic processes and increases protein synthesis in skin cells. It also possesses potent antioxidant activity, normalizes the lipid peroxidation processes in skin cells that in turn promotes the elimination of negative influences on the skin from external factors, (i.e., air pollution, intense sunlight, intensive physical activities and traumas) as well as internal, (i.e., emotional stress) adverse factors. The end result is that metabolic processes in skin tissues become more active and their restoration process is accelerated.
- The cartilaginous tissue peptide stimulates regeneration of fibroblasts and keratinocytes and interferes with destructive changes in collagen skin structure; it also strengthens collagen structure of elastic skin fibers and increases its elasticity
- The vessel peptide regulates metabolic processes in the vascular wall, normalizes vascular tone, restores disturbed skin microcirculation, (even under the action of adverse environmental factors and emotional stress), strengthens and regulates the permeability of the vascular walls of skin vessels and improves skin turgor.
What else is included in Youth Gems in addition to the four peptides?
In addition to the four peptides, the Youth Gems also contain an incredible array of beneficial natural agents- which just by themselves would make other antiaging creams jealous! The range includes:
The bio-antioxidant complex Neovitin®
This is a complex of active ingredients isolated from ginseng. It participates in reducing the oxidation processes and therefore acts as a highly efficient antioxidant. Overall, it strengthens the walls of blood vessels, normalizes fat and protein metabolism in skin cells and optimizes the content of micro and macro elements. It is intended to help balance and correct the antioxidant skin status which is very important for the prevention of natural and premature aging of skin and protects against oxidizing stress caused by adverse ecological conditions, smoking and the administration of antibiotics, as well as intense physical and emotional loads, or staying inside air conditioned rooms.
Furthermore, the bio-complex of cellular membranes isolated from ginseng act to help maintain the integrity of the structures of the cell periphery, keeping its shape and protecting its protoplast. This helps to improve skin elasticity and suppleness making the skin soft and silky.
Olive oil consists mainly of oleic acid triglycerides with the remainder being glycerides of palmic and stearin acids, cholesterol, lecithin and phytosterol. It makes skin tender and velvety by regenerating and moisturizing irritated and dry skin.
Raisin-seed oil has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and regenerative effects. It promotes the peeling-off of keratinized cells; accordingly it considerably improves skin tone and structure. It also helps to regulate sebaceous glands activity and prevent the dilation of pores.
Argon oil, (obtained by a cold pressing method) is one of the rarest and most expensive vegetable oils in the world. Argon oil contains a lot of vitamin E and vitamin F (non-saturated fatty acids). Argon oil is suitable for any type of skin and is especially effective for treatment of age-related changes such as skin wrinkles, flabbiness or dryness. Its oil is quickly absorbed and gets into the deep layers of the epidermis, improving derma cell condition and promoting the division of healthy cells. It also aids moisturization and nourishment whilst softening the skin, making it elastic and supple.
Soya oil is an important source of lecithin, with linoleic acid, oleine acid, palmitin and stearin acids. As with all oils rich with irreplaceable fat acids, lecithin and phytosterol, it restores the epidermal barrier and water-retaining ability of the skin.
Jojoba oil is a mix of non-saturated ether fat that possesses high penetrating ability and is deeply absorbed into the skin providing for the regeneration and protection of deep epidermis layers. Jojoba oil promotes moisture preservation in skin tissues, eliminates peeling and irritation and heals cracks.
Bisabolol is an extract from chamomile and lavender essence possessing anti-inflammatory and soothing actions.
Peony extract is an essence which includes salicylic and benzoic acids, tannins, glycosides, iron, chrome, copper, sodium, potassium and other microelements. It is used in beauty products in order to restore epidermis functions.
Sodium hyaluronate is a derivative of hyaluronic acids that can normalize water balance. It is well tolerated by the skin and is used mainly to correct hyaluronic acid deficiency whose biological synthesis may be disturbed due to aging.
Starch synthesized from different plants improves complexion and skin functions due to blood microcirculation improvement, the skin gains a pleasant glossy shine.
Green tea extract
Green tea extract is a natural antioxidant with a high content of polyphenols, its activity as an antioxidant is several times higher than the antioxidant activity of vitamin E. Tea polyphenols also have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects and they promote penetration of biologically active substances into the skin. Caffeine, being a part of the extract, promotes improvement of blood microcirculation and skin nutrition, reducing edema. Tannins also help to make skin elastic and the extract is rich in vitamins of C, K and B.
Glycerine is a component of vegetable fats that absorb moisture from the air and keeps it on the skin, making it soft and elastic.
Xanthan gum is emulsifier and thickener.
Cocoa oil contains stearin, palmitinic, oleic and linoleic acids. It has healing and toning effects.
Carrageenan from seaweed is known to reduce allergic reactions.
Glucose for energy
Glucose actively participates in salt-water and carbohydrate metabolism, providing the skin cells with energy.
An active yeast complex promotes the prevention of baggy skin and enhances blood circulation to the capillaries located directly under the skin. It increases the elasticity of skin blood vessels and stimulates the production of vascular endothelial growth factor- reducing black eye-rims and edema below the eyes.
Fresh water sponge extract
Fresh water sponge extract possesses anti-inflammatory, anti-edematous and transdermal actions that considerably strengthen the activity of the natural ingredients within the Youth Gems®.
Sorbitol is found in rowanberry juice and is used as a moisturizing component. It influences serum texture, making it soft, plastic and velvet like.
Liposomes are hollow microscopic spheres that contain a stable form of vitamin C and rutin which slow down the skin aging process. Liposomes deliver active substances deep within the epidermis layers.
Panthenol (vitamin В5)
Panthenol (vitamin В5) possesses healing, moisturizing and smoothing actions.
Vitamin E is a natural antioxidant that protects the skin against various oxidizing changes. It participates in biosynthesis of proteins, cells respiration and in other major processes of cellular metabolism and protects skin cells against external adverse atmospheric influences.
Sweet almond extract
Sweet almond extract possesses smoothing and remodelling actions. It forms a continuous, elastic and smooth film on the skin, making it elastic. It also soothes skin and reduces wrinkles.
Winter bloom has a cleansing effect; it soothes superficial skin layers and promotes the shrinkage of pores.
Meadow foam oil
Meadow foam oil possesses strong anti-oxidizing action; it moisturizes the skin, creating an invisible protective film on the skin surface, helping to reduce moisture evaporation, thereby improving the skin structure.
What tests have been conducted?
Clinical trials and examinations have been conducted at the St. Petersburg Biogerontology Institute and they have concluded that short chain peptides, when applied to skin cells, have many beneficial activities, shown below are some of those results:
The result of experimental research has shown that under action of the blood-vessel peptide the metabolism in vascular wall cells is restored to a normal level for each age group, this is despite of the action of negative influences, including environmental factors that otherwise promote accelerated skin aging.
The left slide shows the growth of skin cells in a nutrient medium, the right slide shows the improvement when the thymus peptide is added. The research undertaken in skin cells cultures has shown that the addition of the thymus peptide to the nutrient medium increases the intensity of skin cell proliferation by 42 %, thus promoting the acceleration and renewal of skin cells.
The green = normal skin antioxidant activity, orange = the antioxidant activity of skin under stress, red = antioxidant activity of stressed skin after pineal peptide application. The result of this trial confirms that the pineal gland peptide interferes with the otherwise destructive action of free radicals that are synthetized in skin- that can lead to premature skin aging. In fact, the antioxidant activity of skin cells is halved when under the influence of stress factors; however the application of the pineal gland peptide restores stressed skin to practically the same as physiological levels.
This is an assessment of thermal radiation of the skin of volunteers before and after the application of Youth Gems®. It is known that skin elasticity depends on the microcirculation level in tissues and their moisture capacity. The conducted studies of skin microcirculation, (using a thermal imaging method) have found reliable variation in thermal radiation parameters between the control skin site and after the application of Youth Gems® within 7 days. The difference from the control parameter is a significant sign of improvement, showing that blood flow levels are increased under the influence of the Youth Gems®.
The left slide shows the human skin surface before the application of Youth Gems®. The right slide shows the same skin after the application of Youth Gems® for 2-months. It clearly highlights the considerable reduction of transverse and longitudinal striations; this has resulted in the smoothing of the skin"s surface, reducing the number of small wrinkles, increasing the skin"s elasticity and lifting the face contours. These beneficial effects were noted in 100% of women who took part in the voluntary clinical trial.
Before and After Photo
Figure 1: A 68 year old female before (left) and after (right) application of Youth Gems.
How is each Youth Gem application used?
- Body milk: The body milk is a very light cream that can be applied to most areas of the body, i.e. neck, arms and legs etc. It is designed to help fight against the effects of the loss of skin elasticity with age, providing- after regular applications, a smoother and more efficient skin texture and composition.
- Day cream: The day cream is the core product designed to be applied to the face and hands. Its unique formula provides resilience against skin aging, helping to improve blood supply for a youthful glow and to create a more elastic, compliant skin condition.
- Serum: The serum is designed to be used sparingly against the most noticeable skin aging effects on the face and neck, i.e. applied directly to the fine lines surrounding the eyes and the mouth and chin etc. Regular use will plump up those affected zones and aid in a fuller, more youthful appearance.
All of the Youth Gems should be applied onto clean, dry skin- avoiding the eyes; makeup can be applied after absorption- if required.
Here is a daily home care program for any type of skin at any age:
After showering and drying, distribute the Youth Gems body milk onto hands, legs and arms as necessary with a gentle massaging movement.
Cleanse the face, neck and decollate with the Youth Gems tonic, allow it to dry and then place a thin layer of Youth Gems day cream onto the face- avoiding the eyes.
After cleansing the face with the Youth Gems tonic, apply 3 or 4 drops of Youth Gems serum onto the face and 2 to 3 drops onto the neck and decollate, distribute evenly with gentle movements. Avoid the eyes.
Some of the benefits provided by the peptide bioregulators in clinical trials have been almost miraculous; now for the first time that research is being made available for the support and improvement of skin, to enable the best possible outcomes at any age; accordingly they have been given the right name of Youth Gems.